Another question for those who have been to Rome

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A while back I posted about planning a trip to Rome. We’ll be there for a week at Christmas! Now I’m wondering–

What’s a reasonable amount of money to spend on food for a week? We hope to rent an apartment, so we should be able to cook ‘at home’ some of the time. There will be 5 people - 2 adults and 3 teens. (one teen being a 6’ 2" male who can really eat!) How much do we budget for food? I have no idea. Thanks for any suggestions. —KCT
 
I’m not posting prices this time, just suggestions for places to eat. 🙂

Overall, I’m not sure how much is a reasonable price per person. Besides, that price will vary depending on the person–especially with your one son!

Try to go to more off the beaten path places to eat; they’ll tend to be cheaper. I found numerous small sandwich stalls in narrow side-streets that had fabulous food. I think they were average priced for sandwiches, and definately were less then the more touristy places.

Save money to splurge on gelati (Italian ice cream). You won’t regret it. My favorite gelati place was near Trevi fountain. Face the fountain, then look over your right shoulder–the gelati store was on the corner of the road there. Since it’s in a prime area, it’s probably still there.

Oh, and before I forget–we found that McDonald’s had the most accurate map of Rome. You don’t have to eat there, just run in and grab a map from the stack.
 
Well, when I was there in March I mostly ate bachelor chow–that is, what I found at roadside carts and bar food. I did, however, find a few places that had lots of groceries. Prices aren’t bad if you buy the basics–pasta, sauces and vegetables. I also carried a bag of Meusilix (something like that), and I found it to be very filling as I walked and walked and walked.

A whole family for a week, though? Sorry, I don’t know if I’m much help. Like I said, buy the basics. It’s comparable to American prices, though you’ll have to adjust upward for the Euro…

And, I never found any “out of the way places” that were cheap. I looked–hard. But I think the word is out. Any alleyway with a little family-owned restaurant is going to be spendy.

Basically, plan to blow a lot of cash in Rome.
 
It’s been thirteen years since we visited the Eternal City, but one thing has definitely stuck in my mind–

When stopping in for a sandwich at a sandwich bar, look at the price board. If there are two prices for the same item, DO NOT sit down! There is an additional charge if you actually sit in the bar and eat your sandwich as opposed to taking your sandwich to go. This is NOT to be confused with a tip. Sometimes the “surcharge” almost doubles the price of the sandwich.

Try to avoid restaurants in the “tourist trap” section of Rome… that is, right around St. Peter’s Basilica. We discovered that souvenirs were dirt cheap (you can, after all, get by without them), but restaurants were outrageous.

We finally emptied our mini-fridge in our hotel room and stocked it with cheeses and cold cuts from the nearby supermarket (note: bring your own shopping bag, or you’ll have to buy one!) We were fortunate enough to have been upgraded to a better hotel (our tour group overbooked the original hotel) that had breakfast included, but since we weren’t paying full price on the rooms, we had to be in the dining room at 7 a.m. for the cold continental breakfast (which included cold cuts, fruit, rolls, pastries, cereals, cheese, juices and coffee) and out by the time the 8 a.m. hot breakfast was served. Needless to say, no one overslept and breakfast was definitely the big meal of the day! Our original hotel provided coffee and a roll as their “continental breakfast”.

On subsequent trips to Rome, my in-laws discovered the following:
  1. Peanut butter packs very well (this is NOT a joke!)
  2. Convents are a great place to stay. Meals are provided and the cost is far less than most hotels. And we are talking wonderful home-cooked meals, complete with wine. I believe there is a website that can help you find convents to stay in across Europe. Naturally, the rules are a bit stricter in convents, so maybe if you’re trip is more of a pilgrimage, you might prefer this option.
Hope this helps!

BlueRose
 
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bluerose:
  1. Convents are a great place to stay. Meals are provided and the cost is far less than most hotels. And we are talking wonderful home-cooked meals, complete with wine. I believe there is a website that can help you find convents to stay in across Europe. Naturally, the rules are a bit stricter in convents, so maybe if you’re trip is more of a pilgrimage, you might prefer this option. BlueRose
We’re looking at staying in convents when we travel through Assisi, Florence and Venice. Since we’ll be in Rome a week, we want an apartment- partly for the cost (versus a hotel) and partly so we have some privacy from the kids 😉 —KCT
 
When we visit Italy, we try to eat pizza and a salad for dinner often to hold down costs, and buy foods (yogurt, rolls, cold cuts, bottled water, and fruit) for making lunch in the hotel room, and eat a meal in a restaurant only every other day, if we can. We travel with camping style cutlery (fork, knife, and spoon), plastic cups (for brushing teeth and drinking), a penknife with corkscrew (if you like wine and ONLY in your checked luggage), hand cleanser, and a roll of paper towels to serve as napkins, placemat, and hand cleanser.

You should be aware that in Italy, it is expected that when you eat in a real restaurant (ristorante or trattoria) that you eat at least a first course (soup or pasta) and a second course (meat and vegetable or salad). Nothing will annoy an Italian restauranteur more than Americans who come in and ONLY eat pasta. Also keep in mind that there is almost always a “pane e coperta” (bread and cover) charge of 1 or 2 euros per person, mineral water is usually bubbly (gassosa) but can be ordered without (senza gas), wine is by the liter (1/4 liter for one person, 1/2 liter for two or 1 liter) for 3 or more). But the tip is minimal if at all, rounded up to the next euro perhaps. (Though some tourist places are used to Americans tipping 15 % and may make it clear that they expect it. Resist the pressure UNLESS you only ate pasta, then you might be more generous with the tip to smooth the ruffled feathers!)

Also, if you drink cappucino any other time than the morning (for breakfast) you will be advertising that you are an American and you may get snickers. Finally, do not order a “latte” unless you want a glass of milk. Starbucks would have you believe that latte is coffee but in Italy you need to say “caffe latte” (coffee milk). “Caffe” will get you an expresso (also called “espresso”.)

I would really encourage you to get a place to stay that is centrally located, otherwise you will waste a lot of time commuting to the sights. Also, beware the pickpockets on any transportation (bus or subway) and beware the gypsies on the street. You won’t even know when you were pickpocketed!. Get an under-the-clothes money belt and use it for ATM and credit cards, passport, plane tickets, and most cash. Keep only mugger money in a knapsack, fanny pack, purse, or wallet. (Otherwise, you will waste an afternoon or day at the US Embassy getting a new passport and at the police station filing a crime report…) Be as careful in Rome as you would be in NYC!

We spent 10 days in Rome from Dec 26th into January in 2000-2001. The weather was quite wet though relatively mild (lightweight sweaters under lined raincoats.) I think it rained every day we were there. (And again when we visited Venice and northern Italy in November 2002). But my family swears by that time of year because there are virtually no lines at the tourist sights–just breeze on in!

If you are in Rome for New Years, don’t be outside at midnight. The custom is to throw glass, pottery, and firecrackers out the window. Woe to the pedestrian who gets clobbered! You won’t believe the debris in the streets the next morning!

How much will you spend on food? Boy, that is hard to say. Rome is not cheap, or maybe because I no longer travel like the student I once was. Expect Italy to be like the US but with far less in the way of fast food and no chain restaurants. We spent about $15 to $25 per person eating in neighborhood (not fancy) restaurants and perhaps $7 per person for rolls, coldcuts, water, yogurt etc for lunch. Pizza depending where you eat it and what you drink might run you $5 to $15 per person. An individual pizza (plate size) cost us $10 to $15 in a restaurant when we were last there. A sweet and coffee for breakfast at a bar would probably be $5 per person. (The famous first McDonalds in Italy is at the base of the Spanish Steps. I went there but couldn’t bring myself to eat there, though my family did!)
 
:rotfl::rotfl: :rotfl:

Oh, my goodness, La Chiara, did you ever bring back memories!

We were in Rome during New Year’s of 1991 (my BIL was ordained by the Holy Father on Jan. 3 of that year). I remember the tour guide warning us about gypsies. That they were usually women dressed in long colorful skirts, wearing a kerchief on their head, lots of jewelry, and surrounded by a bunch of kids. Their favorite ploy was to be holding a scrap of paper and asking for assistance (then having one of the kids rob you blind when you stopped to help.)

We left our hotel and went to the plaza and tried to find a restaurant that had been recommended to us at the hotel. So here’s my mother-in-law (who used to always wear a head covering at ALL times) dressed in a long colorful skirt wearing her favorite charm bracelet (had all these gold charms for each of her eight kids) with six of her chidren (okay, we were adults, but you see where this is heading) and two of her grandchildren clustered around her, holding this scrap of paper with the restaurant’s name on it and trying to get someone to stop to ask for directions.

We all caught it long before she did and gathered in a group a short distance away, watching and snickering, but we laughed ourselves sick when she turned to us, bewildered, and said, “Is it just me or is everyone avoiding me?”

Thanks for the memories!

BlueRose
 
We loved Rome, but did find the food to be expensive. We were there about 8 years ago. We did go to the store and get some basics (cheese, bread, wine). The wine came in a small juice size box. It was good and was easy to travel with. We also bought crackers and nutella which is like peanut butter but made from hazel nuts (I think). Pizza was not very cheap so we could only afford the cheese kind. The oddest thing was when we went to a large outdoor produce market. You couldn’t touch the produce. The produce guy almost had a cow when I started touching the produce. So maybe ask first. It never occurred to me that you couldn’t touch the produce. I agree about the gelato. Have it every night. Otherwise what are vacations for. We did eat at the McDonalds. They had different stuff than in the states. We got a three salad meal. One was a seafood salad that was pretty good. I don’t remember whether it was expensive or not though. We loved Rome. Just be sure not to eat near the tourist sights. Food is exhorbitant there. I also agree about using the money belt inside your clothes. My husband did keep some change in his pocket though and we didn’t have any problems.
 
bluerose–Great story about your MIL the gypsy! You all must have great times laughing about that trip! But the stories are always the best part of a trip–the shared memories, not the souvenirs or purchases. Which brings to mind another suggestion–keep a journal, so you can relieve the memories by re-reading the journal. My daughter gets such a kick out of reading what she wrote when she was 9 on our trip to Rome. And BTW, no matter how colorful your MIL’s clothes, the Romans knew she was not a gypsy but rather a crazy American lady! 😃
 
Great grocery shopping at the outdoor market at the Campo de Fiore. Don’t miss.

Chris C.
 
And BTW, no matter how colorful your MIL’s clothes, the Romans knew she was not a gypsy but rather a crazy American lady!
Actually, LaChiara, the funniest part was that, since all she had a chance to say was “Excuse me!”, some of the people avoiding her were AMERICANS! We heard a few whisper, “Look out, there’s one of the gypsies we were warned about!”

And I agree, DEFINITELY keep a journal! We were in a group of 10 and we all took turns writing our daily experiences for my sisters-in-law back home (Carmelites who couldn’t leave their monastery but whom we wished desperately could have been with us!)

BlueRose
 
Check out any of the little bakeries, they always seemed to have the best prices.

Oh, and, no matter what you do or don’t do, everyone will know that you are an American.
 
KCT–

two of my best and oldest friends are LIVING in rome right now, and will be there for the next year. if you would like one of their email addresses, PM me. they’ve been there since july.

they are 22 and 24, students studying to get their masters degree in Marriage & Family. they have an apartment in rome, and both of them are affiliated with the Apostles of the Interior Life, a religious order. (the apartment they’re staying in belongs to the sisters, and both of the girls are very good friends with them–they met them over here, in the states.) it may be a convent you could consider staying at? Their family-- the girls are biological sisters, not religious sisters 😉 – is coming over in December to visit them, too.

my sister in law and her boyfriend are ALSO living in rome right now. they will be there until december.

soooo, if you’d like to talk with americans over there who might know specific places to eat and shop, it might be helpful.

Abby
 
I went to Rome in mid-February last year. My what a place! We stayed about 3 blocks away from the Vatican in a pensione. If you go down Della Mura Arrelia (that’s a street) the opposite way then the Vatican, there is an awesome pizza place. Its a family owned pizzeria and the Italian gentleman that runs it is very friendly. Its small and instead of having fixed prices, you tell him what you want and he’ll come up with a price. He is really cheap. I ordered about a plate full of pizza and a large sprite…6 Euro was all! That is an awesome price for dinner. You also can find stuffed Peppers and other alternative things.

I am totally with the person who suggested the gelato place near the Trevi. Yum yum yum…my favorite was the butter orange rum flavor…🙂 Don’t miss visiting the coliseum, castle’ San Angelo, and the Vatican during the day and night. The Vatican Museum tour is definatly worth every penny… And be sure to catch a Sunday Mass in the Vatican if you can. Its open to the Public. I believe its Thursdays (check with someone on that if your intrested) that Cardinal Ratzinger has Mass near the German Cemetary on the Vatican grounds. That’s also open to the public but its one of those treats that not alot of tourists know about. Sunday afternoons the Pope says the Angelus in St.Peter’s Square, After the Vatican Mass.
Code:
Watch out for the bus 64. You most likely will take it alot of places and it just so happens its also the one with the most pickpockets. Watch out for the people who stand right next to you when the bus is pratically empty and also for gypsies who smile nicely then snatch your passport and credit cards.... I slugged one in the ribs.....:tiphat:  What can I say..:tsktsk:
Anyway, layer your clothes and bring some good comfortable shoes…the cobblestones are merciless.

HAVE A GREAT TRIP!!! God hears you better in Rome it is said.
 
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