For Rubchinskiy, Kaliningrad is a return, not only to Russia, but to the approach he took with his very first show, a deeply political and DIY affair featuring a collection named “Evil Empire” (a term applied to the Soviet Union during the Cold War by US president Ronald Reagan), which contained Russian nationalist symbols like bears and Kalashnikovs. “When we started in 2008 with our first show, it was more like a performance than a fashion show. It was also about politics. With the Georgian conflict, many in the press were against Russia. It was my answer to all of it,” he explains. “I was like, ‘You say we’re evil? Ok, then, why not?’ We wanted to scare them, that’s why we used all the bears and guns.”