A little peeved

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I was Googling cures for my countertop and I found that others who had made the same mistake got pretty impressive temporary fixes with Gel-Gloss. They have to reapply a few times a month, but that’s no big deal.

Now I’ll just wait for the “knowledgeables” like Jay2 or kage_ar to pop in here and tell me that’s a good idea, a bad idea, and which kind of gel-gloss to get. Countertops? Marine strength for boats? Fiberglass?
 
My husband is going to LAUGH when he hears that you find me knowledgable about such things 🙂

He suggested car wax!
 
how about johnsons paste wax? or rubbing compound for cars? I would think these would work better…but I don’t know…
 
I wonder if it would work to use one of the super fine grit emery boards that you would use to polish your nails to a high gloss without using nail enamel.
 
BlestOne said:
how about johnsons paste wax? or rubbing compound for cars? I would think these would work better…but I don’t know…
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I was going to recommend Blue Coral. It will also restore the shine to bathtubs.

If you’re going to paint the countertops eventually, what you do is:
1.) Paint the countertop however you want it. You can use spray, or stencils, or brush, or roller. Doesn’t matter.
2.) Put on 3-5 coats of clear polyacrylic. Make sure to dry thoroughly between coats (a few hours each). Between coats 1 and 2, and between 4 and 5, use low-grid sandpaper to LIGHTLY give the surface some tooth.

A long time ago, I did up some counters in a house with a quilt stencil, in black and white. I could only afford floor tile. It turned out really cute, if I do say so myself.
 
sanctareparata said:
Ever heard of Magic Erasers? If so, then what about its counterpart - Scotch Brite Easy Erasing pad? Here’s what the warnings say: “The Easy Erasing Pad is a very effective cleaning tool which may dull glossy plastic or other **soft **surfaces, and may change the appearance of some **painted **surfaces. Test first in an inconspicuous area using light pressure…” <–yeah, should have done that but I thought it meant to test on plastic, soft or painted surfaces, to make sure it would be okay.

Since when are **countertops **1. plastic 2. soft or 3. painted?

I have just ruined my brand new countertops. :crying: They’ve gone from a lovely black sheen to dull and lifeless.
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I have often found the best and safest cleaners to be the old fashioned ones. For cleaning counter tops, bathtubs, etc. I have found that nothing can beat baking soda and a wet sponge.

I have used the magic eraser pads before. While they do work there is something about them that just does not sit right with me, therefore I don’t use them anymore.

I would definitely give one of the above a try in trying to get the shine back on to your countertops.
 
Sabda said:
I have often found the best and safest cleaners to be the old fashioned ones. For cleaning counter tops, bathtubs, etc. I have found that nothing can beat baking soda and a wet sponge.

I have used the magic eraser pads before. While they do work there is something about them that just does not sit right with me, therefore I don’t use them anymore.

I would definitely give one of the above a try in trying to get the shine back on to your countertops.
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You should pick up Clean House, Clean Planet
 
Sabda said:
I have often found the best and safest cleaners to be the old fashioned ones. For cleaning counter tops, bathtubs, etc. I have found that nothing can beat baking soda and a wet sponge.

I have used the magic eraser pads before. While they do work there is something about them that just does not sit right with me, therefore I don’t use them anymore.

I would definitely give one of the above a try in trying to get the shine back on to your countertops.
Click to expand...
You should pick up Clean House, Clean Planet
 
sanctareparata said:
I was Googling cures for my countertop and I found that others who had made the same mistake got pretty impressive temporary fixes with Gel-Gloss. They have to reapply a few times a month, but that’s no big deal.

Now I’ll just wait for the “knowledgeables” like Jay2 or kage_ar to pop in here and tell me that’s a good idea, a bad idea, and which kind of **gel-gloss **to get. Countertops? Marine strength for boats? Fiberglass?
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I use Gel Gloss every week on my countertops. I will run up and grab it and check the details now! Its in a darker pink metal container with a plastic flip top, I will run up and grab it now.

SO sorry about all of this.
 
Gel-Gloss

Fabulous on Fiberglass
Marvelous on Marble

Gel Gloss cleaner & polish combines the most powerful cleaning agents with the most effective carnauba waxes to produce the highest surface luster possible. Gel-Gloss leaves a smooth, sealed surface that elimanates water-spotting and staining. In addition to fiberglass, marble and acrylic surfaces, use Gel Gloss confidently on ceramic, chrome, stainless steel, porcelain and plastic laminate surfaces(bold mine)
(goes on and on)
Made by TR Industries, 11022 Vulcan St. South Gate, CA 90280

I buy it at the ACE hardware by the house.
EDIT TO ADD:

I do not use or rely on it for cleaning. I clean the countertops FIRST then when dry I go at it with this stuff.

I dont know if it will work for this problem, but I tell you- its good stuff.
I think you can get it almost anywhere- Home Depot- ect.
 
That really stinks, Sancta!! How about orange glow furniture polish spray? I use it on my furniture and it leaves a nice smooth, sinky glow.
Verbum_Caro said:
Sorry about that Sancta. 😦

I’ve heard much about these magic erasers – many great things, many bad things! There doesn’t seem to be any “in-between” with them.

For instance here is a story about a little boy getting chemical burns from using one. kerflop.com/2006/11/02/chemical-burn-original/

Evidently the story has generated some controversy. . even Snopes referenced it. Take it for what its worth, but I know I would think twice about letting a child use one of these things.

VC
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Holy smokes! DD likes to clean her table and I’ve been known to give her a magic eraser. Those things really are magic! They take crayon off anything! I didn’t know they had a chemical in them.
 
MooCowSteph said:
Holy smokes! DD likes to clean her table and I’ve been known to give her a magic eraser. Those things really are magic! They take crayon off anything! I didn’t know they had a chemical in them.
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If you want something safe for crayons, a wet sponge and baking soda works just as well and won’t take the paint off. Of course you well have to use a little elbow grease. 😉
 
sanctareparata said:
Ever heard of Magic Erasers? If so, then what about its counterpart - Scotch Brite Easy Erasing pad? Here’s what the warnings say: “The Easy Erasing Pad is a very effective cleaning tool which may dull glossy plastic or other **soft **surfaces, and may change the appearance of some **painted **surfaces. Test first in an inconspicuous area using light pressure…” <–yeah, should have done that but I thought it meant to test on plastic, soft or painted surfaces, to make sure it would be okay.

Since when are **countertops **1. plastic 2. soft or 3. painted?

I have just ruined my brand new countertops. :crying: They’ve gone from a lovely black sheen to dull and lifeless.
Click to expand...
Don’t get me started on these things…they don’t work well.😦 I’m sorry that happened to you–we too had a bad experience with these things.
 
Since when are countertops 1. plastic 2. soft or 3. painted?
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Just an FYI to followers of the post - from a non-expert, but a considerably “handy-man” type of guy… I’ve built countertops from “Formica”, natural materials (granite), “Corian”, ceramic tile, even concrete!

1 - “plastic”
Formica is plastic. Corian is plastic. They are man-made “engineered” materials.
“Formica” is a layer of plastic pigment/patterns bonded to a backing layer, covered with a thin, clear top layer. This “veneer” is glued to a sheet goods (plywood/MDF) sub-structure to give a finished surface to the exposed area.
“Corian” (or similar) is a plastic composition of granular pigment items bonded in a “medium” of a carrier component, that is extruded into a sheet. This sheet of material can be cut/machined/composite-glued into nearly any shape (almost seamlessly)… cool stuff, but spendy!
“Granite” is just that - rock. A slab of rock has been sliced from a quarry, been cut/trimmed/polished in the form of a finished piece - and set on your cabinets.
Ceramic Tile is clay. Clay that’s been cut to a size, coated with a glaze or pattern, and fired (baked under intense heat). The result is a very hard (but brittle) square of material.

2 - “Soft”.
Take your biggest “Chef’s Knife/Pig-Sticker” and jab the tip into your countertop!
Did it make a gouge/mark?
Then it is “soft”… Only granite or ceramic tile might survive this test… stone or ceramics are harder than, or equal in hardness to steel. (They use diamond-coated blades/media to cut & polish stone/ceramic.) The biggest risk is a crack… NO fix for this other than replacing the tile/section.

With “Formica” you’re pretty much stuck. Once that very thin top layer of clear/gloss overlay is broken you’re left with what you’ve got.
With “Corian” type materials all is not lost. The pattern is throughout the thickness of the product. A gouge/burn can be sanded out, and the product re-polished to a like-new finish…

3 - “Painted”
The surface is as only as good as the product applied.

It’s a question of hardness, abrasiveness, speed, and ultimately water.

Water will eventually cut through rock… given eons (Grand Canyon for example)… add some abrasive and it will cut faster (almost humanly acceptable time)… add some chemicals and it will cut faster yet (Saturday’s clean the bathroom time).

Sorry for the “Handy-Man home materials update”, but this is the reason for the warnings on the label. There is a cost to speed & convenience… that’s why you bought the product!
 
Jay2,

I was wondering where do the quartz counters tops fall in that list?
 
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