I live a little over an hour from there, so have visited numerous times. But, I’ve only been there for mass 3 times; the inaugural, a mass with our parish priest, and one by the friars. So I’ve not really experienced it as a “pilgrim”.
The church itself is very beautiful, but getting to it is a bit of a hike, as it’s like a half mile uphill. They do have golf carts, driven by volunteers, that can bring you up there if the walk is too daunting. Oh and do watch out for rattlesnakes-there was a sign warning walkers that one had been seen along the path once.
The stations of the cross are nice as well, but outside. They are also at the top of the hill. There are a couple other “mini shrines” along the walk as well.
There is a votive chapel about a quarter of the way up to the church, where you can light a candle in memory or honor of someone. It’s tight quarters and prie dieus (sp?) are minimal in the votive chapel.
The gift shop, welcome center, and cafe are at the bottom of the hill (ie, by the parking lot). Gift store is not huge but has a decent selection. Food at the cafe is good. The volunteers at the welcome center are helpful.
If you go and are looking for something specific that the shrine doesn’t have in their shop, there is also a Catholic store, Noelkes, across from the cathedral in downtown La Crosse.
They are on winter hours, so aren’t open late into the evening. Getting to it can be a bit of a chore, as interstate goes through the area on the far noth side of la crosse, but the shrine is on the far south side. Traffic on Losey Blvd (the main artery there) can be stop-and-go at times; otherwise you have to go through downtown.
If you’re not part of a bus tour, I’d recommend going up to Grandad’s Bluff (turn west at the corner of Losey and Main) for a great view of the city. The road up, Bliss Rd, has occasional wash out issues so it might not be open. It’s also a bit of a switchback, so I wouldn’t drive it in sleet or snow. They do New Year’s fireworks from there so it may not be accessible that day. If you’re coming near the holidays, there’s also the Rotary Lights in Riverside Park after dark which is definitely worth the side trip. I believe it opens today and runs through December.
If you have any more specific questions about the shrine (or area in general), feel free to ask.
Eric, OP