I think that the problem with sister’s and nuns habit was that the habits were not practical and that the sisters were not practical. I can be completely wrong, so don’t take this to the bank.
I’m a Franciscan Brother. Our habit is very simple. It’s one layer of clothing. It’s a simple tunic with a hood and a cincture. We have no curcifixes around the neck. The side rosary has always been optional, since it was not part of the original habit. Some communities wore it and others did not. It was up to the local community to decide.
The color was also up to the local community to decide. The traditional color of the Franciscans is brown, because the Observants make up the largest group of Franciscans and they wear brown. People associate brown with the Franciscans.
But the original color is actually gray. Many Franciscan communities of men wear gray. The advantage to gray is that it is more comfortable in the warmer climates and just as comfortable in the cooler climates.
In addition to this, the Franciscan men, as well as other male religious, have long had the option of taking the habit off to do manual labor or when inside the religious house. We take them off for sports, going for a hair cut or going to the doctor. Sisters and nuns, on the other hand, wore them 24/7. This was not the case with male religious.
Even monastic males take their habits off for work, when it’s very hot, and when they’re alone. Some have a tunic shirt that they wear and others work in regular work clothes.
Among male religious the use of the habit is governed by common sense. This was not the case with women religious prior to the 1960s. I don’t recall any sisters or nuns in work clothes other than the habit. This of course meant that they required more care in terms of maintenance for the sake of cleanliness.
Also, the male religious habits tend to be very simple, with the expection of the Dominicans and the Carmelites, who actually wear the same habit, but in different colors. They’re two of the few religious communities of men who wear habits with layers.
Most Benedictines wear a tunic and a scapular. Most Fransicans and Augustinians wear a tunic and a capuche.
Most friars and monks do not wear pants under the habit. This takes out the problem of overheating in the summer. Even those male communities who do not wear a habit, but wore a cassock, such as the Jesuits, the Redemptorists, Fathers of Mercy and several others, wore a very simple cassock with only one layer of fabric and no shirt under it. It’s really a long shirt over the pants, much like an Arab would wear. This iis much more comfortable than what sisters wore, the layers of skirts, scapulars and layers of fabric around the head and neck.
I’m not sure why men’s habits were simpler, but the fact is that they are. What we see is that male religious seem to have kept their habits, even though they do not wear them 24/7.
My habit is very simple. The fabric is lightweight. It’s gray with a capuche. We have two versions. One is a traditional tunic to the floor and the other is a tunic shirt that goes below the pants pocket. The tunic shirt is identical to the upper part of the long tunic. It’s just short. You wear it with pants in certain climates where the long tunic is not practical. But it is easily recognizable as Franciscan because of the cut and the capuche with the Tau on the chest.
There are days when it is very hot and on those days, I just unzip the front. We have a six-inch zipper down the front. I can unzip it like one would open up a polo-shirt. This is very practical when I’m driving in 90 degree weather from one ministry to another. Most cassocks can also be opened in the front while you’re driving and roman collars can be taken off and put on when you arrive at your point of destination.
The best part about my habit is that the color remains clean for a long time. I don’t have to wash it more than once a week and I never have to iron or starch anything. Just dry it and wear it.
Contrary to popular myth, Franciscans did not have wool habits. The only friars who wore wool habits were those in the colder climates. It was not a universal requirement. The habit was made out of whatever fabric was available in your area. We have never had the exact same habit for the 1.7 million Franciscans around the world. Each community adopted to their circumstances, long before Vatican II.
I don’t ever remember the habit being a point of discussion for us. Each design was spontaneous according to the resources and needs of time and place.
By the way, I do like my habit very much and am comfortable in it. There are some places where I do not wear it, because we’re not allowed to, such as when we minister in certain organizations and functions that are run by the state or by other secular organizations. Then we accommodate by wearing very simple clothing, usually a white shirt and gray slacks.
I’m not so sure that women’s communities had this flexibility as did Franciscan males.
Just my two cents.
Br. JR, OSF