Used minivans

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I really like our Chrysler Town and Country
We bought it brand new in 2003…0% financing…

Routine things have needed repair…We did have 1 major problem at 68,000 miles… the transmission…which we replaced for $2,800…

Other than that, love it! It is 9 years old, and still looks brand new, is so roomy and comfortable …and runs well.
 
Cars are things where a little bit of effort and investment go a LONG way. We’ve had a Honda van for 200,000 miles now and while it’s been a very good vehicle, they are nothing like the myth of Honda invincibility (my repair list is available on request!). The worst part of the Honda vans is the transmission. Any in your price range are going to be on their transmission last legs - a $4,000 repair!

While Toyotas are very good, they are priced extremely high for what you get and in your price range they may be due for a timing belt job (depends on engine and year if they have one, but if so, this is $700+ at a dealer). Well maintained engines with a timing chain shouldn’t need replacement at less than 250,000 miles.

If your husband has a set of tools and knows how to use them, look into a Caravan with as few options as possible and with the 3.3 liter V6 engine (Chrysler’s most durable). Try NOT to get one with power door openers. These are money pits on ANY make. Look for a van where the money you are spending is going for good fundamentals, not frills. Caravans are usually basically sound and the people who hate them are usually people unable to do basic repairs themselves. If you have a repair shop do EVEYTHING for you, you will spend more on them in the long run than a Toyota (in good shape). If you don’t mind grease under hubby’s fingernails, you can save a lot DIYing simple fixes. (Disc brake repair work, for example, is easy to learn, hard to screw up and you can replace rotors and pads yourself for under $100 when a Dealer would charge you $600+). Don’t rule out a van due to body rust. If the chassis and mechanicals are sound, you may be able to get a great deal on a van that just has some cosmetic rust issues (you did say money was tight).

When you look at them at the lot, pull the engine oil dipstick. Black sludge and low on the stick? Pass. Full to the fill line and you can see the dipstick hatch through the oil? Worth looking closer. If the last owner at least did his oil changes properly, maybe he did more right. If he neglected even oil changes, he hasn’t done ANY maintenance! Same goes for transmission fluid.

Invest in a Haynes repair manual for simple fixes and find an internet forum specific to your brand van. If you get the Chrysler ALWAYS use the transmission fluid specified in the owner’s manual. NEVER let Iffy Lube or other chains touch the transmission or sell you on flushes or nonsense. DIY the ATF change or have the dealer do it. Many to most Mopar van transmission failures are caused by incorrect fluid use or use of a ‘flush machine’ incompatible with the transmission.
 
Great! :rolleyes: We bought a Town and Country with a lot of add ons. I liked it because it had more power that the Chevy we had before. My daughter’s wheelchair weighs about 300 lbs. and that poor Chevy was killing itself to get up hills of any size. Maybe we’ll get lucky with this Chrysler.🤷
 
They (DH, FIL, MIL and SIL) went to look at a van this weekend. A 2003 Chevy Venture LS Extended version. Its $2500 and 120,000 miles with some cosmetic issues (a couple dents, stains, glovebox won’t stay closed, passenger window doesn’t work). They test drove it, it shifted smoothly, sped up quickly, air in the back worked great, very roomy. Everybody liked it. We’ll see what our mechanic says. Just hoping for something that’ll last a couple years with no major issues.

Thank you everybody!
 
For the Chevy, ask the mechanic if he can tell if the “lower intake manifold gasket” has ever been replaced. These GM 3.4 V6’s were notorious for leaking coolant into the engine oil there (bad news). But if caught and fixed early, no biggie. At that mileage, consider doing a transmission fluid and filter change (really easy, if messy to DIY) with Dexron VI spec fluid and draining and replacing the coolant (unless they both look brand new already).

A week or so after the coolant is changed, take a Sharpie marker and mark on the coolant reservoir the level of the coolant when the van is stone cold and parked on level ground. Watch that level often (cold and level). If it ever starts dropping, suspect a bad “lower intake manifold gasket” and see your mechanic pronto.
 
For the Chevy, ask the mechanic if he can tell if the “lower intake manifold gasket” has ever been replaced. These GM 3.4 V6’s were notorious for leaking coolant into the engine oil there (bad news). But if caught and fixed early, no biggie. At that mileage, consider doing a transmission fluid and filter change (really easy, if messy to DIY) with Dexron VI spec fluid and draining and replacing the coolant (unless they both look brand new already).

A week or so after the coolant is changed, take a Sharpie marker and mark on the coolant reservoir the level of the coolant when the van is stone cold and parked on level ground. Watch that level often (cold and level). If it ever starts dropping, suspect a bad “lower intake manifold gasket” and see your mechanic pronto.
Ok, thanks! Husband doesn’t know a lot about DIY with cars. It would be very helpful if he would learn!
 
thanks manualman! a good thing to know since i have a venture…i don’t THINK this was a problem for me, but honestly the thing is so old at this point i can’t remember! do YOU have any specific recommendations for good used mini’s? i too could use some advice as we are going to probably be looking in the next yr or two. what are your reviews of the chevy uplanders? they seem to have good re-sale values…
 
Money aside, the 2004-present Toyota Siennas appear to be the least troublesome minivans (older Toyota vans should be used with synthetic oil due to hot running engines prone to scorching oil). The Honda is close, except that they had some serious problems with the transmissions ($$). I wouldn’t buy a used one as there are bandaids that can mask symptoms long enough to sell. New Hondas are not bad deals in the long run if you pamper the transmission (which you should on ANY make).

In the new van market, there are some unbelievably good deals on Dodge Caravans. 7 passenger seating, rear AC, keyless locks ~$21,000. Hondas and Toyotas are a lot more new.

In the used market, the Dodge/Chrysler vans with the 3.3 V6 are IMO the best bang for the buck as they depreciate rather faster than the Hondotas.

I’m partial to GM by nature, but it seems to me that they haven’t been trying to seriously compete in minivans since the mid 1990’s. The Venture/Uplander/Montana/Silhoutte/Relay brothers can provide long reliable service, but it’s more hit/miss than the other brands, IMO. They really didn’t engineer these to be vans, but scaled up their FWD sedan systems and hoped for the best. Certainly don’t try to tow with one of these and don’t be a lead-foot. That and a bit of luck can still yield long life.

If you are at all handy or have a long trusted reasonable mechanic, any of the vans nowadays are likely to give you at least 150-200k miles with a modest list of repairs if you stay on top of preventive maintenance and drive modestly. None of them are heavy duty enough to beat on hard and expect long reliable life. If buying used, look for signs that it has been well maintained: clean air filter, clean fluids, even tire tread wear, maintenance records are especially a great thing to look for (and rare).
 
Addendum for clarity: In the four figure budget range, the Toyota may not be the lowest long term cost. A well maintained Dodge 3.3 will still probably cost less than a neglected Toyota van of similar year and actually be more reliable. As cars get a lot of miles, the level of maintenance starts to become more important than who made it. A Toyota can hit 100k miles even if they only changed the oil 10 times and did nothing else to it. But if the original owner treated it that way, it won’t go the SECOND 100k miles reliably.

A Dodge with 100k miles with original engine and transmission in good working order, well maintained is probably one of the good ones that’s going to hit 200k. If it were one of the more lemony Dodges or had been badly neglected, it would already have needed massive repairs. It pays to look up service history if you can. I won’t buy ANY car that has already had 2 transmissions at 100k miles. Odds are, it’s going to keep eating them.
 
Addendum for clarity: In the four figure budget range, the Toyota may not be the lowest long term cost. A well maintained Dodge 3.3 will still probably cost less than a neglected Toyota van of similar year and actually be more reliable. As cars get a lot of miles, the level of maintenance starts to become more important than who made it. A Toyota can hit 100k miles even if they only changed the oil 10 times and did nothing else to it. But if the original owner treated it that way, it won’t go the SECOND 100k miles reliably.

A Dodge with 100k miles with original engine and transmission in good working order, well maintained is probably one of the good ones that’s going to hit 200k. If it were one of the more lemony Dodges or had been badly neglected, it would already have needed massive repairs. It pays to look up service history if you can. I won’t buy ANY car that has already had 2 transmissions at 100k miles. Odds are, it’s going to keep eating them.
Is there a way to look up service history other than simply through the owner?
 
I made friends with a Saturn dealer I used to buy parts from (when there WERE Saturn dealers). He’d run VINs for me as a favor to check for major problems, but only those repaired at a dealer would show up. Most dealers won’t (and shouldn’t) reveal any personal info on the owner on a VIN, but you can sometimes beg for info on a history of big problems. I’m not aware of any other way. Your mechanic can check if the VIN on the engine and trans still match the one on the dash too. (I THINK all makers stamp VINs on both engine and trans).
 
Having had Worked in both the auto parts and auto repair industry, my brother manualman has given you great advice, and I agree with him wholeheartedly on his points with all of the vehicles mentioned
 
WOW, manualman, thanks again. this is really helpful. I too am partial to GM, by requirement, since my dad worked there over 30 yrs. He would just about go into total shock if I purchased something outside of the 'big 3" makers. so maybe a dodge WILL still work out! that would be good. since we also follow dave ramsey, we’ll be looking for a 2-5 yr old model and paying cash for it. so, in your opinion are the 2008-2012 models any good, and what specifically would i need to look for? thanks!
 
As I mentioned above, you can get a basically equipped Caravan brand new with front/rear AC, 7 seats, and power locks with key fobs for arond $21,500. That’s nutty cheap and IMO a better deal than a year old Caravan Crew (deluxe) version for the same price. Yeah, you give up the roll down middle windows, power door motors and other fancy stuff, but these days ALL the Caravans come with a modern, outstanding powertrain (unlike previous years where the cheapies came only with four cylinder engines that lacked adequate power).

I’m not terribly partial to low mileage used cars. IMO you still have to pay too much. Late model used cars were rentals, leases, cars that got sold because their owners hated them or the cars of rich people who can afford to lose their shirts every other year. The first three of those aren’t cars I really want. Nobody drives a 2 year lease the way they would a car that needs to last them 200k miles. They beat them like rentals.

If I’m buying used, I actually PREFER a car with 80k to 100k miles that shows evidence of having been taken care of well (see above posts). These cars still have lots of life left and it’s easier to tell if the previous owner was a good one or not vs a late model low mile used car. Plus they’re usually dirt cheap. It helps that I can DIY most easy fixes myself. If you’re paying somebody $90/hour to fix every little thing, this route might not be as rosy for you as it is for me. I tend to forget how much time I spend in the garage.

Try this strategy: If you drive a lot of miles a year, buy a new, but low trim Caravan. You should be able to get 250k miles (unless it takes you more than 12 years to do this) out of it with primo maintenance. A good overall cost per mile.

If you don’t drive many miles per year, a used Caravan 3.3 V6 with 80-100k miles is probably your cheapest cost per mile choice as the initial cost will be low and it’s fewer remaining miles will still get you a good number of years of service. This route is also probably your best bet if you just don’t have the budget to do the new one even if you do drive a lot of miles. I hate loans for cars…

Again, your local market will actually determine the best bet. If you find another brand van in good condition at a good price that checks out mechanically, GO for it. Brand differences in longevity don’t mean as much as they once did. We actually bought a new Honda recently to replace the one we put 200k on (kept the old one in reserve for when my 40mpg 1995 Saturn commuter is down for repairs, which is getting more frequent). I wanted to go Dodge. Wife hated the dashboard of all things, so I got outvoted. Thousands more dollars for a better dashboard. But it’s her car after all… 😉
 
wow, i am speechless. i truly am so thankful this thread got started and for the awesome advice our manualman gave us!

this changes a lot for us for our next van. caravan, likely, it is. and hopefully new! we are just about debt free and should be by the time we need a new one, so taking on that small payment shouldn’t be too bad. thanks so much
 
Another thing to consider, just in general, is whether or not you have a good, reasonably priced car repair place close to where you live.

I live in a small town, and there is a very reasonably priced and trustworthy car repair shop just three blocks from my house. It is very easy for me to leave a vehicle there for repairs, walk home, and then walk back later when it is ready to be picked up. (It also helps that I work at home.)

If you have a situation similar to this, then it might make sense to get a high-mileage used vehicle (assuming that you take reasonable precautions to verify that it has been well maintained). If you don’t have a situation like this, then a high-mileage used vehicle might not be as good an idea.
 
wow, i am speechless. i truly am so thankful this thread got started and for the awesome advice our manualman gave us!

this changes a lot for us for our next van. caravan, likely, it is. and hopefully new! we are just about debt free and should be by the time we need a new one, so taking on that small payment shouldn’t be too bad. thanks so much
If you have kids (who else buys minivans?), do check to make sure the Caravan is one with the rear AC option. AC is standard on even the cheapest Caravan out there. REAR rows AC isn’t - extra cost option. Could be easy to miss since test drives are generally from the driver’s seat! There is so much window glass that rear seaters will roast without AC, especially since I’m not sure there are any operable windows back there…

Even I’m not cheap enough to skip rear AC! 😉
 
Ok, thanks! Husband doesn’t know a lot about DIY with cars. It would be very helpful if he would learn!
I agree with everything Manualman said. At 120K I would change the transmission fluid ASAP unless it was done at 100K and you know for sure it was done. The FWD transmissions in minivans get worked very hard because of the weight and bulk they are hauling 100% of the time.

For some reason all Chevies of the that time frame have problems with intake manifold gaskets. We’ve seen it in everything from 3.8 V6s to the 8.1 V8s.
 
One minivan I haven’t seen too much posted about on here is the Kia Sedona. If you look at one get a 2006 or newer version. Basically it looks like Kia studied the Toyota Sienna and thought “They seem to have gotten it right” and copied it. We have a 2008 and the issues have been minimal for the first 100K miles. They have surprising power (my wife left 10’ of scorched tire marks at the first stop light) and fairly good fuel mileage. They have surprisingly low resale value so used is your best bet. Once we had ours I was surpised by how many other vans that I thought were Toyotas were actually Kias. The only thing I don’t like is their oil filter set up.

One thing I would stay away from on all older minivans are the automatic doors. They are great when the van is new but it seems they all run into issues as they age and see use. The repairs to them are extremely expensive (for some reason $600 gets tossed out when ever one quits working). And it is not specific to a one make or brand - its common to ALL of them. And for some reason they don’t stay fixed (lots of motors and moving parts). Just because you spent $600 last month doesn’t mean you won’t be paying $600 next month to fix it again.
 
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