Where does one go for financial planning advice that isn't debt-focused?

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I’ve been looking around, but most everything I’ve seen seems to start on the assumption that you have a lot of debt and that that’s the primary thing you want help with. They also often seem aimed at a much higher income level than I am. I don’t have credit card debt (I have cards, paid every month). I have a small car loan but it’ll be paid by the end of the year. I do have student loans, and that is part of what I’d like to discuss with someone, but thankfully all of mine are federal direct loans, not private.

I’m looking more at things like, say, getting further education without going into debt, saving money on rental costs without putting myself at too much risk from roommates, figuring out extra income without overloading, managing retirement savings, managing medical bills, that sort of thing. I’m single and looking for a new job because my current one, given the health insurance I have, doesn’t pay enough to live on my own. It would also help to have someone who could talk about the sorts of unexpected expenses that pop up.

Any suggestions? I know Ramsey is really popular around here, but his fees are very high and most of it seems aimed more at established middle class people who have overspent rather than those of us who are lower-income and trying to put things together.

Edit: I would also want something that assumes I know basics. I can put a budget into a spreadsheet, I can calculate interest, that sort of thing. I know better than to leave charges on a card to accumulate interest. So I understand the basics of “how to keep a budget.”
 
I do have student loans, and that is part of what I’d like to discuss with someone, but thankfully all of mine are federal direct loans, not private.
What aspect of your loans are you wanting to discuss?
I’m looking more at things like, say, getting further education without going into debt, saving money on rental costs without putting myself at too much risk from roommates, figuring out extra income without overloading, managing retirement savings, managing medical bills, that sort of thing.
Each of those things are very different, and so you will probably need to set up appointments with some different specialized individuals or read several different books to get what you are after.

Education- Department of Education website, the financial aid office of the university you are interested in attending. Graduate school funding and aid are very different from undergraduate funding and aid.

Tenancy - I can suggest nolo.com and some of their books. Their article here is a good start, along with the book they recommend:

nolo.com/legal-encyclopedia/renting-house-apartment-with-roommates-29865.html

Basics of money management and investing:
nerdwallet.com/
Suze Orman or Dave Ramsay books

Vehicles: Edmunds.com
Code:
It would also help to have someone who could talk about the sorts of unexpected expenses that pop up.
Well, that’s really budgeting for emergency savings.
suggestions? I know Ramsey is really popular around here, but his fees are very high and most of it seems aimed more at established middle class people who have overspent rather than those of us who are lower-income and trying to put things together.
Basic money management books are aimed at all income levels. The basics of money management are that your income must be greater than or equal to your outgo or you need to reduce expenses, increase income, or both.

Ramsay has good books. So does Suze Orman.
 
What aspect of your loans are you wanting to discuss?
It’s more a balance act. With student loans, putting off things like retirement savings in order to pay the loans down seems unwise, especially if one’s income stays low. Federal loans of the type I have are eligible for repayment plans with fairly low caps, and they will eventually go away after 20 years of payment. So figuring out the best plan of attack there is the idea.
Education- Department of Education website, the financial aid office of the university you are interested in attending. Graduate school funding and aid are very different from undergraduate funding and aid.
I might be interested in undergrad or grad, depending on availability, and I’m interested in anything that’s got a decent program without breaking the bank. Department of education website really doesn’t cover a whole lot to be honest, at least if one doesn’t want to take out more loans. I’m also interested in things that might let me bypass some classes or even manage to get me into a starter job that would provide better funding.
Tenancy - I can suggest nolo.com and some of their books. Their article here is a good start, along with the book they recommend:
That’s kind of what I’m worried about there. I know that renting with roommates is a cost saver, but there’s also a lot of risks, especially if you don’t personally know anyone looking for a roommate. I’m not sure I want to take on all the risks and would want to explore other options.
Basics of money management and investing:
nerdwallet.com/
Suze Orman or Dave Ramsay books
Will take a look.
Well, that’s really budgeting for emergency savings.
It is, but it’s nice to have a good idea what sorts of emergencies one is looking at. It’s also good to get ideas of warning signs to help prevent emergencies.
Basic money management books are aimed at all income levels. The basics of money management are that your income must be greater than or equal to your outgo or you need to reduce expenses, increase income, or both.
Ramsay has good books. So does Suze Orman.
Well yes, but then it comes down to how you do that. When you don’t have a lot of discretionary spending and have concerns about taking on a second job, how to accomplish those isn’t obvious. A lot of money management I’ve found seems to assume that either you can cut a significant portion of your expenses by simply not buying things, or that you can work a 60-70 hour week if needed.
 
For just understanding insurance, taxes, mortgages, savings and so on?

“Making the Most of Your Money NOW” by Jane Bryant Quinn. Her “The Indispensible Retirement Guide” is also good for those approaching Medicaid and so on, but the first is about as straightforward a soup-to-nuts treatment of personal finance as you are likely to find.

The chances are extremely high your public library has it. Give it a test drive. You may be able to pick up enough information in the time you have it to save the money of buying it at all.
 
Check out You Need a Budget (YNAB). It’s more than just a budgeting software - it’s an actual method which will allow you to start planning for savings, like you requested. It’s fairly inexpensive and you can get a 3 month free trial if you use this link. I have no affiliation with that link - but it’s better than the usual 34 day trial on the regular page.

As for the student loans, I don’t know if anyone can really answer that question well. The fate of the repayment forgiveness programs depends on the whims of the current administration and nobody really knows what is going to happen. I just know that I wouldn’t trust my financial future to sketchy promises from the government. I’d just pay them off as quickly as I’m able.
 
It’s more a balance act. With student loans, putting off things like retirement savings in order to pay the loans down seems unwise, especially if one’s income stays low. Federal loans of the type I have are eligible for repayment plans with fairly low caps, and they will eventually go away after 20 years of payment. So figuring out the best plan of attack there is the idea.
I think something like Quinn’s book would help you to have the information to make this decision, but you’re the one who has to decide how to allocate money based on your circumstances.

For instance, some of us have no one who could tide us over for even a month if we had a huge unexpected expense, whereas others have parents or relatives who could (and would) float us a loan for a short time. That influences how much money we put in a retirement plan with huge tax savings but the risk of a substantial penalty for untimely withdrawal.
I might be interested in undergrad or grad, depending on availability, and I’m interested in anything that’s got a decent program without breaking the bank. Department of education website really doesn’t cover a whole lot to be honest, at least if one doesn’t want to take out more loans. I’m also interested in things that might let me bypass some classes or even manage to get me into a starter job that would provide better funding.
The type of education you are talking about and the chances that it will enhance your earning power and your chances of getting long-term employment factor very heavily into college decisions, as well.
That’s kind of what I’m worried about there. I know that renting with roommates is a cost saver, but there’s also a lot of risks, especially if you don’t personally know anyone looking for a roommate. I’m not sure I want to take on all the risks and would want to explore other options.
What kind of risks are you talking about? Do you mean financial or personal?
It is, but it’s nice to have a good idea what sorts of emergencies one is looking at. It’s also good to get ideas of warning signs to help prevent emergencies.
The kind of emergency depends on you. For instance, if you don’t own a car that you need to get to work, you don’t have the concern of an engine going out. If you don’t have a dog, you don’t have to worry about unforeseen vet bills. If you have health insurance through your parents, you don’t have to worry about how you’re coming up with money for premiums if you lose your job and have to shoulder the whole bill for the policy you used to get through work. If you have relatives who can give you a stopgap loans that won’t put your kneecaps in danger if it takes six months to pay them back instead of three, that makes a difference, too.
Well yes, but then it comes down to how you do that. When you don’t have a lot of discretionary spending and have concerns about taking on a second job, how to accomplish those isn’t obvious. A lot of money management I’ve found seems to assume that either you can cut a significant portion of your expenses by simply not buying things, or that you can work a 60-70 hour week if needed.
You can’t get blood out of a turnip. If you don’t have the money for living on your own to pencil out, you have to take on the hassle and risks of a roommate or roommates, even if that is your parents. If you can’t get into the black and make your plans work out with one job, you have to figure out how you’re going to get a second one.

If nothing pencils out anywhere to do anything but keep your head above water, then treading water and looking for the tide to bring in more options may be all you can do. It isn’t as if everyone in this world who is barely making ends meet or who is losing ground is going downhill financially for want of common sense and self-discipline. Sometimes people become poor or stay poor because of lack of opportunity, not lack of gumption. Still, getting out there and making things a little better for yourself does have this way of improving your lot in life significantly over the long haul, even if it doesn’t seem like much at the time.

Do you have someone in your life who has managed their money well who can be a mentor for you? Sometimes these issues require more of a flesh-and-blood sounding board than a paid financial planner. In your shoes, I think I’d read books like Quinn’s for my financial education, then consult with a few people who can give feedback on your specific situation but who will keep their hands off your decisions afterwards. (You do not need an “I told you so” type who will Monday-morning-quarterback you if you don’t take their advice and you guessed wrong.)
 
For just understanding insurance, taxes, mortgages, savings and so on?

“Making the Most of Your Money NOW” by Jane Bryant Quinn. Her “The Indispensible Retirement Guide” is also good for those approaching Medicaid and so on, but the first is about as straightforward a soup-to-nuts treatment of personal finance as you are likely to find.

The chances are extremely high your public library has it. Give it a test drive. You may be able to pick up enough information in the time you have it to save the money of buying it at all.
Looks like it does, thanks. Looks useful.

I’m kind of trying to just get to the step beyond writing expenses out and comparing to income and into a little more practicality of maximizing the work I get out of the money I have and the money I have for the work I put in.
 
I’ve been looking around, but most everything I’ve seen seems to start on the assumption that you have a lot of debt and that that’s the primary thing you want help with. **They also often seem aimed at a much higher income level than I am. ** I don’t have credit card debt (I have cards, paid every month). I have a small car loan but it’ll be paid by the end of the year. I do have student loans, and that is part of what I’d like to discuss with someone, but thankfully all of mine are federal direct loans, not private.

I’m looking more at things like, say, getting further education without going into debt, saving money on rental costs without putting myself at too much risk from roommates, figuring out extra income without overloading, managing retirement savings, managing medical bills, that sort of thing. I’m single and looking for a new job because my current one, given the health insurance I have, doesn’t pay enough to live on my own. It would also help to have someone who could talk about the sorts of unexpected expenses that pop up.

Any suggestions? I know Ramsey is really popular around here, but his fees are very high and most of it seems aimed more at established middle class people who have overspent rather than those of us who are lower-income and trying to put things together.

Edit: I would also want something that assumes I know basics. I can put a budget into a spreadsheet, I can calculate interest, that sort of thing. I know better than to leave charges on a card to accumulate interest. So I understand the basics of “how to keep a budget.”
I think you are quite right that a lot of mainstream financial advice assumes a fairly large income and that everything is basically OK (that’s definitely the vibe you get from the financial advice magazines).

You can pick up Dave Ramsey’s The Total Money Makeover from the library. It’s not going to have career planning advice or roommate advice (you’ll have to get that elsewhere), but it will offer an easy to follow and understand financial roadmap.

daveramsey.com/baby-steps/

(Saving a downpayment and buying a house is at 3b. When you have an extra $100, I suggest you do his Financial Peace University. That’s aimed at a pretty broad audience.)

You are probably at Step 1 (save $1,000 emergency fund).

I think the Baby Steps would make a lot of sense for you. I have to mention that DR is actually pretty flexible on the radio show (which is also free). So, for example, if you’re in an emergency or anticipate an emergency soon (new baby or job loss), he encourages you to stop doing extra debt repayment and save the money until the crisis is over. Even an upcoming wedding might get the same treatment of stop extreme debt repayment, save modest wedding fund instead, get married.

However, the sticky question is, how do you get your income up so that you can actually move forward in the Baby Steps?

If it’s a second job, I think you can be pretty ruthless about just bailing if you get overloaded. This sort of thing might be a nice second job, by the way:

t.vipkid.com.cn/faq/payment

That’s online English tutoring for overseas Chinese kids–a friend of mine is looking into it, and she says that 5-8 AM is their busy time. It runs $14-22 an hour, which is better than a poke with a sharp stick. We have a bipolar friend who works for another company that provides similar service, and he’s been very happy with it (he’s otherwise unemployable). I would think that if you have prior teaching experience, it shouldn’t be $14 an hour. (Presumably one has to pay a lot of independent contractor taxes out of that, so one has to be prepared for that in advance.)

DR would tell you not to worry about retirement savings yet, but to pay off your loans aggressively. (But I might tell you to split the difference if you foresee that your loans are going to be around for 10+ years.)

You need emergency cash savings a lot more than you need retirement right now.

I wonder if there isn’t a community college office that might be helpful to you. Maybe flip through your local catalog, see if a particular job training program looks doable, then go talk to the department?

With regard to budgeting, even DR doesn’t go into huge detail. And come to think of it, I suggest getting Elizabeth Warren’s All Your Worth and having a look. She encourages a 50/30/20 budget plan, with 50% of budget being your basic necessities, 30% being frills, and 20% being savings (either debt pay off our actual savings. The beauty of Elizabeth Warren’s approach is that should you hit a rough patch, you are already set up to live on half of your previous income, as you can just stop spending the 30% frills and doing the 20% savings. The trick, as you can see, is arriving at the point where you only need 50% of your income for necessities–but it is a good guide (although I think it works better for a single person than a family). Another rule of thumb is to keep housing costs below 25% of household income.

There are actually some nuances to budgeting that you may not have thought of. Once you have the room for it in your budget, I would suggest starting some sinking funds–these are small internal savings funds for upcoming expenses that don’t rise to the level of emergency. Some examples:

–car maintenance (our family puts $80 a month into our fund, which covers maintenance, repairs, and any surplus is available as saving for our next car, but anything you can put in there will be helpful)
–Christmas (even $10 a month could be helpful for you)
–medical/dental/therapy/glasses (we do $125 a month, but there are 5 of us and we have decent insurance)
–electronics maintenance and replacement (depending on needs–$10 goes a long way)

Best wishes!
 
It’s more a balance act. With student loans, putting off things like retirement savings in order to pay the loans down seems unwise, especially if one’s income stays low. Federal loans of the type I have are eligible for repayment plans with fairly low caps, and they will eventually go away after 20 years of payment. So figuring out the best plan of attack there is the idea.
You are right, in general putting off saving for retirement is a bad idea due to the time value of money and dollar cost averaging when you purchase shares in mutual funds, stocks, etc. Regularly saving for retirement from an early age, particularly in a tax advantaged account like an IRA, ROTH IRA, or 401K/403b is a smart idea. A basic financial planning book can help you with that. Or you can find a financial planner in your area who works for a flat rate, rather than a commission on stock purchases.

As for student loans, if you are on an income based plan, yes your payment is low, but no the loans don’t “go away” in 20 years. After 20 (or 25 depending on the plan) years of payments on an income based plan, if you have a remaining balance it will be forgiven. Currently, any forgiven amount is taxable income to you in the year it is forgiven. Depending on the specifics of your loan, you may or may not have a balance to forgive at the end of 20 years.

To compare plans, and view the potential forgiven balance on each of the repayment plans, log in to NSLDS and use the repayment forecast. You may be making assumptions about the value of the income plan to you.

If you are working in a job that qualifies under public service loan forgiveness or teacher loan forgiveness, the criteria, timelines, and requirements are different. There may be more forgiveness benefit in this situation than the income plan alone. The forgiveness in PSLF is after 10 years of on time payments, and should be coupled with an income plan.

If you have Perkins Loans, that is a completely different animal.

Also, I know in the past you mentioned disability-- if you become totally and permanently disabled, TPD, your loans are eligible for discharge.

The best place to start is NSLDS with your specific loans.
I might be interested in undergrad or grad, depending on availability, and I’m interested in anything that’s got a decent program without breaking the bank. Department of education website really doesn’t cover a whole lot to be honest, at least if one doesn’t want to take out more loans. I’m also interested in things that might let me bypass some classes or even manage to get me into a starter job that would provide better funding.
Sounds like you should be talking to the financial aid office at the school, a career counselor at the school, an academic advisor at the school, and if grad school the actual department (where much of the funding such as teaching assistanceships and grants come from). Some of these questions are financial (aid, grants), some are vocational (internship/job placement), and some are academic (testing out/bypassing classes). You are going to need to talk to multiple people. You can call the university and ask to speak to the graduate school recruiter as a starting point, they will set you up with these other people.
That’s kind of what I’m worried about there. I know that renting with roommates is a cost saver, but there’s also a lot of risks, especially if you don’t personally know anyone looking for a roommate. I’m not sure I want to take on all the risks and would want to explore other options.
There really aren’t a lot of options-- rent with a roommate or rent by yourself. You can have a written roommate agreement to mitigate any issues as you rent together. Or you can look for rental options you can afford on your own.

Your local city or county housing authority may be able to give you advice on local rentals, on low income programs.

Talk to your county health and human services department too.
It is, but it’s nice to have a good idea what sorts of emergencies one is looking at. It’s also good to get ideas of warning signs to help prevent emergencies.
I think you want a life coach or life counselor. There are those types of things, but they generally are not cheap or free.

No one can tell you what you want-- it sounds like you want someone to lay out all the possible mistakes, all the ways to avoid all possible mistakes, all possible unforeseen circumstances (which by definition are not knowable) and all possible emergencies to avoid.

This is just called: LIFE.
Well yes, but then it comes down to how you do that. When you don’t have a lot of discretionary spending and have concerns about taking on a second job, how to accomplish those isn’t obvious. A lot of money management I’ve found seems to assume that either you can cut a significant portion of your expenses by simply not buying things, or that you can work a 60-70 hour week if needed.
There is no silver bullet. You have to find what works for you. You do what it takes-- move home and live with family, get roommates, cut expenses to the bone, take a second job, and if needed get government assistance.

There isn’t an easy answer. I know it’s hard. You just do the best you can.
 
I think a good book can answer most of your questions and some have already been recommended. I wouldn’t advise spending money on an advisor because you are not in trouble, you seem to have a good basic knowledge, and your queries are so diverse that one advisor is probably not going to know all the answers.

With respect to your question about how to get more education without going into debt: Look into whether employers will pay directly for, or reimburse for, tuition and books in the field you want to go into. Employers will often list this in their benefits. If you don’t see this listed as a benefit for your employer or any other employer in which you are interested, then feel free to contact HR and ask. Usually companies are very open to the idea of their employees becoming more educated and they welcome such queries much more than if you went in asking for an ordinary raise. They may have something in place that’s not advertised to all employees but is reserved for certain employees or for those who ask for it. You can also talk to others who have recently done degrees in that field to see how they paid for their degrees.

Virtually everyone at my first employer who had a bachelors in a certain area obtained masters degrees, paid for by the company, so it was like getting a raise in pay that paid all your tuition.
 
Virtually everyone at my first employer who had a bachelors in a certain area obtained masters degrees, paid for by the company, so it was like getting a raise in pay that paid all your tuition.
Yes an employer can pay about $5100 in education tuition reimbursement per year for an employee without it being taxable income to the employee.

Not all employers offer it broadly. There may be criteria to qualify.
 
It’s more a balance act. With student loans, putting off things like retirement savings in order to pay the loans down seems unwise, especially if one’s income stays low. Federal loans of the type I have are eligible for repayment plans with fairly low caps, and they will eventually go away after 20 years of payment. So figuring out the best plan of attack there is the idea.

[snip]

It is, but it’s nice to have a good idea what sorts of emergencies one is looking at. It’s also good to get ideas of warning signs to help prevent emergencies.
With emergencies, there are very few categories. In your situation, it’s usually going to be either car or health. When you buy a home, you’ll have household maintenance emergencies (like, plumber, buy a new dryer, buy a new fridge, etc.). I suppose there are also just acts of God (floods, hurricanes, blizzards, tornadoes), but those are very geographically specific. So, Floridians need a hurricane plan and Texans and Oklahomans need tornado plans and Northerners need blizzard plans.

Once you can afford it, I would suggest keeping $40 cash (ideally in smaller bills) on your person at all times, because there are an awful lot of problems that can be fixed with $40. In a true emergency, you won’t be able to get to an ATM/the ATM won’t be working/etc. Also, once you can afford it, keep your car fueled up.

Unless you are going to be indigent for the rest of your life, I really, really don’t like the 20 year repayment plan.

How big are your total student loans?
 
As for the student loans, I don’t know if anyone can really answer that question well. The fate of the repayment forgiveness programs depends on the whims of the current administration and nobody really knows what is going to happen.** I just know that I wouldn’t trust my financial future to sketchy promises from the government. ** I’d just pay them off as quickly as I’m able.
There is that. Do we even believe that in 20 years, the federal government will be in a position to follow through on that promise?

Current signs point to “no.”
 
I think something like Quinn’s book would help you to have the information to make this decision, but you’re the one who has to decide how to allocate money based on your circumstances.

For instance, some of us have no one who could tide us over for even a month if we had a huge unexpected expense, whereas others have parents or relatives who could (and would) float us a loan for a short time. That influences how much money we put in a retirement plan with huge tax savings but the risk of a substantial penalty for untimely withdrawal.
Fair enough. The “cost” of borrowing money from my parents would also be a factor. I’m definitely in a position where I might make one or two choices that wouldn’t be the best from a pure financial perspective, but that would reduce the emotional load that I’m carrying.
The type of education you are talking about and the chances that it will enhance your earning power and your chances of getting long-term employment factor very heavily into college decisions, as well.
Right. I’m thinking primarily of computer based fields right now - I think my logic training would translate excellently and it gives me a better idea that I would probably both be good at it and enjoy it.
What kind of risks are you talking about? Do you mean financial or personal?
Both, really. Financially, while you can put together a roommate contract to get rent, actually enforcing it is a long process and not always guaranteed - much longer than the time it would take to get evicted for not paying the rent. But I’ve also found other issues sometimes, like a roommate who would start throwing my stuff around and threatening to break it if I wasn’t quiet enough after 10pm (and I didn’t think her definition of “quiet enough” was a reasonable one, especially in a creaky old house). Given my allergies and chemical sensitivities I also have worries there - a lot of people really don’t understand the difference between “doesn’t like the smell of air freshener” and “seriously allergic to artificial perfume,” and can’t figure out why I’m not willing to compromise.
The kind of emergency depends on you. For instance, if you don’t own a car that you need to get to work, you don’t have the concern of an engine going out. If you don’t have a dog, you don’t have to worry about unforeseen vet bills. If you have health insurance through your parents, you don’t have to worry about how you’re coming up with money for premiums if you lose your job and have to shoulder the whole bill for the policy you used to get through work. If you have relatives who can give you a stopgap loans that won’t put your kneecaps in danger if it takes six months to pay them back instead of three, that makes a difference, too.
Fair enough.
You can’t get blood out of a turnip. If you don’t have the money for living on your own to pencil out, you have to take on the hassle and risks of a roommate or roommates, even if that is your parents. If you can’t get into the black and make your plans work out with one job, you have to figure out how you’re going to get a second one.
That’s one of the things I’m looking at. If nothing else, is there a good way to get money that wouldn’t necessarily be a commitment of X hours a week at Y time. That would be a lot easier on my health.
If nothing pencils out anywhere to do anything but keep your head above water, then treading water and looking for the tide to bring in more options may be all you can do. It isn’t as if everyone in this world who is barely making ends meet or who is losing ground is going downhill financially for want of common sense and self-discipline. Sometimes people become poor or stay poor because of lack of opportunity, not lack of gumption. Still, getting out there and making things a little better for yourself does have this way of improving your lot in life significantly over the long haul, even if it doesn’t seem like much at the time.
Yeah, a lot of it’s just…I know it would be really financially unwise to just move out too early, but at the same time I’m worried that it’s psychologically unwise to stay with parents.
Do you have someone in your life who has managed their money well who can be a mentor for you? Sometimes these issues require more of a flesh-and-blood sounding board than a paid financial planner. In your shoes, I think I’d read books like Quinn’s for my financial education, then consult with a few people who can give feedback on your specific situation but who will keep their hands off your decisions afterwards. (You do not need an “I told you so” type who will Monday-morning-quarterback you if you don’t take their advice and you guessed wrong.)
Yes and no. I feel like the people I know who managed money well tend to be in very different circumstances than me often. They didn’t have student loans and by the time they had to start worrying about health problems they had good health insurance. They were also married much younger, which solved roommate problems more easily.
 
Yes an employer can pay about $5100 in education tuition reimbursement per year for an employee without it being taxable income to the employee.

Not all employers offer it broadly. There may be criteria to qualify.
The biggest difficulty here is many employers don’t want to pay for a second BA if you already have one. It’s easier if you’re getting a degree in a related field, but that requires you to get into a related field first.
With emergencies, there are very few categories. In your situation, it’s usually going to be either car or health. When you buy a home, you’ll have household maintenance emergencies (like, plumber, buy a new dryer, buy a new fridge, etc.). I suppose there are also just acts of God (floods, hurricanes, blizzards, tornadoes), but those are very geographically specific. So, Floridians need a hurricane plan and Texans and Oklahomans need tornado plans and Northerners need blizzard plans.

Once you can afford it, I would suggest keeping $40 cash (ideally in smaller bills) on your person at all times, because there are an awful lot of problems that can be fixed with $40. In a true emergency, you won’t be able to get to an ATM/the ATM won’t be working/etc. Also, once you can afford it, keep your car fueled up.

Unless you are going to be indigent for the rest of your life, I really, really don’t like the 20 year repayment plan.

How big are your total student loans?
Yeah, I wasn’t counting on the 20 year repayment plan as a primary plan, but I was saying, worst come to worst, they would still likely be gone by the time I’m looking at retirement. Total principal as of right now is 22k.
 
Yeah, I wasn’t counting on the 20 year repayment plan as a primary plan, but I was saying, worst come to worst, they would still likely be gone by the time I’m looking at retirement. Total principal as of right now is 22k.
Glory be! I thought you were going to give a really scary number–20 years from now, there shouldn’t be much left of a $22k loan. Moderate income people pay off much larger mortgages than that in 20 years.

$22k is in the zone, though, where it would be realistic to delay retirement savings (for example, if you could pay it off in 3 years). After your car loan, of course.

Based on what you were saying about roommate issues and allergies, I wonder if it would be the worst thing in the world to keep living with your parents? It feels weird saying that after all of your posts on your mom, but

a) you could realistically make huge progress on your debts
b) your mom is not going to throw your stuff around for walking around after 10 PM
c) your mom is not going to gas you with air freshener and nasty perfume
d) your mom is not going to have shady boyfriends staying over

So, as roommates go, you could do a lot worse than your mom. I think life is going to be more bearable now that you have a car, so I suggest enjoying your car for a month or two and seeing how much you can work.

If you do stay with your mom, I suggest creating a special “Bye, mom!” savings fund, dedicated to allowing you to be able to move out as soon as you can find a place if things get rough at home.

One of the options that I would suggest is being on the lookout for an old lady who needs a helper and has an extra bedroom. My neighbor, for example, is a frail but well-off widow (I’m assuming she’s well-off, because I see workers over at her place very frequently). She just told me that she needs help putting her trash on the curb (as she’s now using a walker) and would my kids be willing to do it for $5? (I’m going to tell her that they will do it for $2.) Anyway, I would suggest putting the word out to your pastor and older people at church to tell you if there’s any older lady who needs a respectable helper in exchange for a room. This is a long shot and you’d need to be a little careful about expectations on both sides, but it might be a nice change of pace for you and it would be very low risk. Plus, this is probably an interim living situation for you anyway–I don’t see you needing this for longer than 1-3 years.
 
Yeah, I wasn’t counting on the 20 year repayment plan as a primary plan, but I was saying, worst come to worst, they would still likely be gone by the time I’m looking at retirement. Total principal as of right now is 22k.
The 10 year standard plan is going to be the cheapest from an overall cost of loan-- the less time you take to repay, the less you pay in interest.

At $22K, some of the income plans won’t have a forgiveness benefit after 20 years, just a much higher overall repayment for stretching it out so long. You end up paying off the loan before you reach forgiveness-- but you pay more in interest in some cases a LOT more.

I suggest you go to:

studentloans.gov/myDirectLoan/mobile/repayment/repaymentEstimator.action

use the “login” option and log in to NSLDS and pull in your actual loans, actual AGI, family size, and state of residence, and look at the results.
 
The 10 year standard plan is going to be the cheapest from an overall cost of loan-- the less time you take to repay, the less you pay in interest.

At $22K, some of the income plans won’t have a forgiveness benefit after 20 years, just a much higher overall repayment for stretching it out so long. You end up paying off the loan before you reach forgiveness-- but you pay more in interest in some cases a LOT more.

I suggest you go to:

studentloans.gov/myDirectLoan/mobile/repayment/repaymentEstimator.action

use the “login” option and log in to NSLDS and pull in your actual loans, actual AGI, family size, and state of residence, and look at the results.
So that will allow DL to calculate the total cost of each repayment plan?

Sweet.
 
Whatever loan you have, one way to pay it a lot quicker is to always make some extra payment towards the principal every month. Even a little bit. Or if you get some extra money in hand, throw some at that principal. It works, I’ve done it.
 
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