I skimmed it.
It’s assuming buying a new EV, but if one were to do a conversion, there wouldn’t be such an upfront cost, as the article claims AND you can sell the engine or buy a car which has a blown & destroyed engine to start the project.
Furthermore, the upfront cost of a pure EV (maybe not a Volt) should be a lot LESS than an ICE car, since they are much more simple. In fact they were some of the earliest cars invented, and even a Volt-like car, the Krieger, was invented over 100 yrs ago (see
theswedishtiger.com/296-scotts.html). Before the automatic ignition, EVs were a favorite among city dwellers over the smelly, hard-to-start, less safe ICE crank cars.
I would have been happy to get an EV with crank down windows, and everything very cheap, since that is what we were used to. The only high-tech feature I’d want is the regenerative breaking, which makes a lot of sense.
Higher costs are only partly due to the batteries (which probably only adds some $2000 additional manufacturing costs); it’s more a matter of economies of scale that EVs are more expensive, plus for some reason they think they have to make them very fancy with all the high-tech totally non-essential gadgetry. For some reason they think EVs will only appeal to rich folks.
Quite frankly we consider our Volt a luxury car, compared to the old clonkers we’re used to. Knowing that this would be our last car, and having saved many $1000s from doing the EC (environmentally correct) things for 25 years (saved over $2000 just from the $6 low-flow showerhead), plus saving untold $1000s by living within 1 mile (sometimes within 2 miles) of work since the early 70s (to save resources for future generations), we decided to “splurge” on our last car.
However, I did an Excel spreadsheet after buying the Volt, comparing it with the Ford Taurus hubby had wanted. One of the factors I included was a better resale price after 7 or 8 years, also the price of gas increasing over time (more relative to the 100% wind & solar electricity we use). I also accounted for less range as the battery became less efficient over the years.
In Jan 2012 when our 1998 Ford Taurus started leaking so much repairs would greatly outweigh its worth, we started used car shopping bec the new version of Taurus was just too big and gas-guzzling for us. We couldn’t find a used Taurus in our area (say 2005 or newer), so we started looking at other used and new cars. What we found was the used fuel-economy cars like Prius, and even non-hybrid Toyotas and Hondas were very costly compared to the non-fuel-economy bigger cars.
I finally steered hubby to the Chevy place and when he saw I had tricked him into looking at the Volt he gave out a curse word under his breath. Being a good Catholic, he immediately repented, then thought, “why not let her have what she wants.” And that’s how we got the Volt
My spreadsheet came out that within 7 or 8 years our savings with the Volt & better resale value would equal the costs for a hypothetical used Taurus (which would have much higher repair costs without the new car warranty…and we knew well about those costs, having been paying them on used cars our entire 45 years of marriage). Then after those 7 to 8 years, we’d be saving more on the Volt.
OK, you’ll point out that the battery warranty will expire in 8 years, but we will have only driven 40,000 to 50,000 miles by then, so I expect our Volt battery will last another 8 years or more (since they did tell me it was designed and meant to last the car’s lifetime). Maybe by then the battery could use some reconditioning to bring it up to snuff. Also battery technology will have improved by then AND costs would have come down.
Here is an interesting discussion of a person’s Volt & its battery after the 8 year warranty is up in 2020 –
gm-volt.com/2013/04/24/replacing-my-chevy-volt-battery-in-2020/