That is a good point. What are the economic costs of reversing desertification? Since you are close to farming you probably know better than most, so enlighten us. My thought, being not very close to farming, is that at least with CO2 emissions, the major emissions sources are point sources (power plants) and can be addressed intensively. But with reversing desertification, one must replant wide areas and make whatever other changes are required for the new plants to grow. It probably can be done fairly easily if we make small changes and let those changes propagate for centuries. But if you wanted to reverse desertification quickly, that sounds very expensive.
It would vary from place to place.
I don’t know, for example, what can be grown in north China, or how quickly it can be done in the various ecosystems there. But there’s always a way to do it. Most grasslands, for example, get desertified by cutting or cropping grasses so close they don’t have enough blade surface for adequate photosynthesis. Desertification cascades from there. If they can photosynthesize adequately and if the detritus is allowed to degrade biologically, they’ll rebuild soil. Most soil is nothing in the world but rock dust mixed with organic material of biologic origin. In a way, you’re “mixing the rock with sunlight”.
In an area like the one in which I live, (classified “humid subtropical” but close to the northern edge of that zone), I could tell you easily enough. It isn’t horribly expensive, and a couple of years can make dramatic results. Even if there’s no humus at all, and it’s just bare clay, you can do it. I would do it with a combination of a soil-building grass variety and a nitrogen-fixing legume. If there’s no humus at all and it’s all bare clay, I would harrow in manure with a disc harrow or feed cattle with hay in the location during the winter and no-till in the late winter, taking the animals off until at least late May; maybe not until fall. I would bring the soil to “soil test”. But always, my two central objectives would be soil building and moisture retention. My fundamental methods would be encouraging photosynthesis and returning organic material generated by it to the soil.
In a somewhat droughty place, I would probably also plant trees that cast filtered shade from the western sun along borders. In my area, it would be mostly black walnuts and shortleaf pine. Two years of close attention will restore almost anything here if you provide a minimum of fertility initially, allow photosynthesis sufficient to build good root systems and ensure that the detritus (seed stems, old grass) get stomped to the ground by hooved animals. Organic material of biologic origin holds moisture remarkably well.
On an extremely droughty, shaley surface that’s west-facing, I would plant shortleaf pine and white oaks, and leave it for the wild animals and “volunteer” woody species like wild cherry, redbud, persimmon and dogwood to live in. Eventually, they’ll create humus and trap moisture, but I would still leave it to the woody species, allowing a very little cattle intrusion once/year to clean up low-lying shrubs and deposit a little manure. (Wild blueberries and other fruiting plants like that manure, wild animals like the fruit, generate manure, die, return to the soil, etc, etc)
In the less humid southwest, I understand, reversing it would probably take a lot more, including very major root plowing and herbicides, in order to get rid of the mesquite and prickly pear that infests so much of it but leaves so much of the ground uncovered.
There’s always a way. It just has to be the right one in the right place.
In places like the Sahara, there probably isn’t a way. I’m talking about the places that have been desertified by man, and those areas are huge.